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Mid-Century 18K 0.54ct Diamond Buttercup Solitaire

Vintage
Sale price$2,600.00

Eight petals of white gold rise from the band—shaped from a single piece of metal worked into a crown that holds this diamond like it's floating. The buttercup setting requires the metal to be carefully formed into individual scallops while maintaining structural integrity. The diamond sits elevated on an almost cage-like platform above the bed of petals. This one survived 70 years with all eight petals intact, still crisp enough to catch light from every angle.

Created during the post-war jewelry renaissance when white gold replaced wartime platinum restrictions, most likely in the 1950s based on construction and style. The original jeweler carved "0.54" inside the band—the exact carat weight—alongside their poinçon de maître: what appears to be a flower motif with the letter M, though the mark's current condition makes full identification difficult. However, the French eagle head to it’s side confirms legitimate French origin. At size 9.5, sized up from something smaller, someone wanted this ring to fit no matter what.

Signed with a flower and an M.

  • METAL: 18K white gold (750 hallmark)
  • WEIGHT: 2.7 grams
  • HALLMARKS: French 750 mark visible, "0.54" carat weight inscription
  • SIZE: US 9.5-10 (TDD 62/63)
  • RESIZING: Can be sized down 2-3 sizes safely
  • DIMENSIONS: Approximately 7mm diameter head setting

Stone Science
  • CENTER STONE: 0.54ct round brilliant diamond (per original inscription)
  • CUT: Modern brilliant cut for the era (transitioning from old European)
  • COLOR/CLARITY: Estimated H-I, VS2-SI1 (uncertified)
  • TREATMENTS: None (pre-treatment era)
  • SPECIAL FEATURES: Set in hand-fabricated buttercup/crown mounting
Era & History
  • ERA: Circa 1945-1960, most likely 1950-1955
  • ORIGIN: French, based on hallmarking style
  • AUTHENTICATION: Period-appropriate construction verified through buttercup setting technique
  • DOCUMENTATION: Original carat weight inscription provides internal provenance
Condition Notes

All eight buttercup petals remain intact and clearly defined. The diamond sits secure in its elevated setting with no visible damage. Professional resizing evident at the base of the shank where the ring was sized up. The "0.54" carat weight inscription remains legible inside the band. French eagle head hallmark clearly visible. Maker's mark present but only partially legible, showing a flower motif and the letter "M". The white gold shows normal wear consistent with age.

Mid-Century 18K 0.54ct Diamond Buttercup Solitaire
Mid-Century 18K 0.54ct Diamond Buttercup Solitaire Sale price$2,600.00