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Mid-Century French 18K Diamond Marquise Cluster Ring

Vintage
Sale price$1,350.00

French goldwork from the 1950s, when jewelry was built by hand in family workshops along the Rue de la Paix. The marquise shape earned its French name "navette"—meaning little boat—from its hull-like outline that tapers to points at both ends. Fifteen brilliant cuts totaling approximately 0.45 carats, each individually prong-set in yellow gold heads that contrast against what appears to be a white gold band showing through decades of wear. Someone had this ring replated at some point—probably switching it from white to yellow gold when fashion changed—and now sixty years of wear has revealed both stories. The French eagle head hallmark for 18-karat gold has been worn nearly smooth, alongside what appears to be a maker's mark, both leaving ghost impressions in the metal. At 4.3 grams of solid 18-karat gold, the weight confirms authentic period construction regardless of which color shows through.

Named for a boat, built like architecture.

  • METAL: 18K yellow gold (750) appears to be white gold band with remnants of yellow gold plating
  • WEIGHT: 4.3 grams
  • SIZE: 52 EU (US 6)
  • RESIZING: Can be sized up or down 1.5 sizes maximum
  • HALLMARKS: French 750 mark and maker's mark (worn but visible)
  • CONSTRUCTION: Hand-fabricated with individual prong settings 
Stone Science
  • CENTER STONE: ~0.15ct brilliant cut diamond
  • ACCENT STONES: ~0.30ctw (14 diamonds), brilliant cut
  • TOTAL WEIGHT: ~0.45ctw natural diamonds
  • COLOR/CLARITY: Estimated H-J/SI (period appropriate)
  • SPECIAL FEATURES: All original stones intact
Era & History
  • ERA: 1950s-1960s
  • ORIGIN: France (based on hallmark style)
  • AUTHENTICATION: Hallmark wear analysis confirms 50+ years age
  • CONDITION: Good vintage condition with unique two-tone patina
  • NOTABLE: Historic replating now wearing through to reveal original white gold
Condition Notes

Good vintage condition with fascinating evidence of its double life. The band shows what appears to be white gold beneath wearing yellow gold plating—a common practice when owners wanted to update their jewelry's color without buying new pieces. This creates an unintentional two-tone effect that's become part of the ring's character. French hallmarks are well worn but still visible under magnification, confirming authentic age. All fifteen diamonds remain original and secure in their settings. Light surface scratches throughout consistent with sixty years of wear. The color variation between the band and head is now a feature, not a flaw—showing both the ring's original metal and its mid-life transformation. Can be left as-is for the authentic vintage two-tone look, stripped to reveal all white gold, or replated to uniform yellow.

Mid-Century French 18K Diamond Marquise Cluster Ring
Mid-Century French 18K Diamond Marquise Cluster Ring Sale price$1,350.00